There’s no English sign but the owner is friendly and the khao ka muu (stewed pork knuckles with rice) and kuay thiao nam (noodle soup) do the trick for a cheap and filling meal. Over in the old quarter, we’re still partial to a tiny lunchtime kitchen called Baan Khun Yai, sandwiched between a motorbike dealer and bridal shop down a narrow alley off Assadang Road, just east of the Korat Hotel. Class Cafe delivers the caffeinated goods. She pounds several different types of shredded green papaya salad, including the Central Thai version with a splash of Isaan-style pla raa (fermented fish sauce) known as som tam Khorat.
It’s mainly a takeaway joint from here you could walk south and hang a right on Jomsurangyad before busting out the chicken at a streetside table overseen by a som tam lady who opens in the evenings next to a 7-eleven and just west of Klang Plaza 2. A standout for grilled chicken is Gai Yang Saeng Thai, which churns out juicy rotisserie birds cooked along the footpath for 130 baht a pop. Stroll around downtown streets like Suranaree and Jomsurangyad at dusk and you’ll see loads of street carts and open-fronted shops that get packed with locals. Around 100 baht is enough for a couple of plates of food and bottled water. Diners buy a ticket at a counter and hand it to the vendors after ordering, returning to the counter to get any unspent money returned. If you’re looking to try street-style Thai food with less of a language barrier and perhaps a more sanitary appearance, Klang Plaza 2 has a basement food court with stalls offering pad mii Khorat and many other options for a little more cash than you’ll pay on the street (but still darn cheap). Pad mii Khorat, a fried noodle dish that tastes like an extra savoury and crunchy version of pad Thai. Some carts offer a few tables for eating on site. This is also a good place to find pad mii Khorat, a local fried noodle dish usually made with pork and morning glory that tastes like an extra savoury and crunchy version of pad Thai. Poke around to find som tam, curries for takeaway, deep-fried Thai mackerel and all of the classic Thai and Chinese-Thai street dishes. Grab a stool and pile on the fresh and pickled veggies before indulging.Ī lively option for a cheap evening meal is the Wat Boon Night Bazaar, marked by big English signs at the far western end of Chomphon Road in the old quarter’s eastern fringe. Nam yaa krathi is slightly sweet thanks to coconut milk and not quite as fishy or spicy as other types of khanom jeen curries, which are all displayed in big cauldrons that make it easy to order by pointing. We couldn’t resist a 20-baht bowl of khanom jeen nam yaa krathi, one of several khanom jeen (sticky rice noodle with curry) dishes served by a few different vendors. While Mae Kim Heng is great for an eye-popping stroll with some finger foods, you’ll also find a line of vendors serving standard street dishes like noodle soups and khao man gai (chicken rice) to some tables on the west side of the roofed market. Good meals are always on offer at Mae Kim Heng Market. Step inside to find bright Thai sweets, pig heads, flower garlands and paper offerings used in traditional Chinese funerals.
A breathtaking array of fruits includes rambutan, longan, grape and custard apple, often cultivated in the Wang Nam Khiao and Khao Yai areas.
On the Suranaree side, footpath vendors serve gai yang (grilled chicken) with sticky rice along with fiery chilli pastes, several types of sausages and sun-dried meats. Food enthusiasts should start at Mae Kim Heng Market, a roofed maze of stalls that overflow onto both Suranaree and Pho Klang roads, just west of Ya Mo.
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